Should you be scared of your shampoo?

I was doing some grocery shopping online recently (I have small children, I’ve started to view traditional supermarket shopping in the same way as beating my carpets with a stick and washing clothes in a stream) when I came across some reviews for a particular brand of shampoo.

Most of the reviews were positive, but some were not. In particular, there were a few one star ones complaining about ingredients called methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone.

273px-Methylchloroisothiazolinone_structure.svg

methylchloroisothiazolinone

What, you may be wondering, are these monstrosities? Surely with names that long they must be huge great big molecules? Actually no, they’re quite small. Methylchloroisothiazolinone (shown in the graphic) has a mere four carbon atoms and an interesting assortment of other elements. They’re part of a group of compounds called isothiazolinones, which are heterocyclic molecules that include a five-membered ring which contains nitrogen, sulfur and a C=O group.

Not surprisingly considering the unwieldy name, methylchloroisothiazolinone is often shortened to MCI. Likewise, the chemically-similar methylisothiazolinone (imagine the molecule above without the -Cl bit) goes by the moniker MI, or sometimes MIT.

MCl and MI are common preservatives in cosmetic products

MCl and MI are common preservatives in cosmetic products.

Why are these things in shampoo? Well, they are very effective preservatives. They’re antibacterial and antifungal, and work against both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, as well as yeast and fungi. This is a good thing, because some of these microbes are pretty nasty. The bacteria, for example, include such lovelies as Nocardia (associated with a particular type of respiratory disease), Staphylococcus (associated with various infections) and Listeria (most famous for causing gastrointestinal distress). It may be a small risk, but showers are warm, moist environments – basically the perfect breeding ground for these sorts of things. If these microbes start growing in your shampoo, shower gel and so on, they would then end up on your hair and skin, possibly be inhaled, and might even make their way into your bloodstream if you had a small cut somewhere.

Yuck.

So, that’s why these chemicals are there. That all sounds good, right? Why are people complaining?

The dose makes the poison is an important principle in toxicology (image credit: Lindsay Labahn, click for link)

The dose makes the poison is an important principle in toxicology (image credit: Lindsay Labahn, click for link)

Well, because they also have their hazards. Now, before I go any further, we should remember a very important principle of toxicology, which is that “the dose makes the poison“. Everything, I really mean EVERYTHING, is dangerous if you’re exposed to too much of it. Oxygen is quite crucial if you want to carry on living, for example, but breathe in too much of it for too long and you’re at risk of developing visual disturbances, tinnitus, nausea and muscle spasms. Too much could even be lethal. Similarly, a pinch of salt is quite nice on chips, but try and drink say, seawater, and you’ll soon regret it. Even plain water can be dangerous if you consume too much in too short a time, particularly if you’re also exercising hard.

Many chemicals that are used industrially have scary lists of associated hazards, but it’s important to remember that these warnings are usually aimed at people who use said chemical in an industrial setting. In other words, they might be handling kilograms or even tonnes of the stuff, all day every day, as opposed to the teeny tiny quantity you’re likely to meet a few times a week.

I could pick literally any ingredient in that shampoo bottle and proclaim that it’s dangerous. This would be perfectly true, but also meaningless. A more pertinent question is: is it dangerous in the quantity that you usually use?

Are methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone in shampoo dangerous? There’s no evidence that they bioaccumulate (build up in the body) or that they’re linked to any kind of cancer (phew). In 2002, there was an in vitro (i.e. outside of living organisms) study of the neurotoxicity of MI which showed that mature neurons in tissue culture could be killed by 4-12 ppm solutions of the chemical. But these experiments were performed on rat brain cells in culture. Lots of things will damage cells in a petri dish: it doesn’t mean that we necessarily have to worry about them in every day life. A shampoo solution pouring straight into your brain might well be harmful, but I suggest that if that’s happening in the shower you have bigger problems. Namely, major head trauma.

However, in high concentrations, MI and MCl are definitely skin and membrane irritants, which can cause chemical burns. They’re known chemical ‘sensitisers‘. This means that exposure to them, even at fairly low levels, might cause an allergic reaction.

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A patient who presented to a medical centre following a severe reaction to methylisothiazolinone in a wipe (SA Government – click image for source).

This is where we get into difficult territory, because exactly how a particular individual is going to respond to something like this can be hard to predict. For example, I’ve never had a nasty reaction to methylchloroisothiazolinone. Give me an aspirin, on the other hand, and I’m likely to be in trouble. Allergies are specific to individuals. But there is no doubt that some people do have nasty reactions to MCI and MI; some sources have suggested it might be as many as 15% of the population (and that this number might, worryingly, have increased in recent years).

These chemicals are, or at least have been, also used as preservatives in other products such as sunscreens, moisturisers and wipes (baby wipes, facial wipes and moist toilet tissue, for example), which is a particular concern because you don’t wash off the the residue from these products – that generally being the point of using them – so it lingers on the skin.

A 2014 report from the International Journal of Toxicology concluded that although MI and MCI are sensitisers at concentrations of 50 ppm and above, they weren’t at concentrations of 15 ppm (and below). And therefore they, “may be safely used in ‘rinse-off’ products at a concentration not to exceed 15 ppm and in ‘leave-on’ cosmetic products at a concentration not to exceed 7.5 ppm”.

However, also in 2014, the European Commission Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety argued that: “For leave-on cosmetic products (including ‘wet wipes’), no safe concentrations of MI for induction of contact allergy or elicitation have been adequately demonstrated.”

People have been particularly worried about children, especially with respect to baby wipes. This is not unreasonable, since not only is the contact dermatitis that can occur painful and unpleasant, but once sensitisation has occurred it can’t be reversed: anyone affected will have to read labels extremely carefully for ever after. As a result, consumer groups have campaigned to have MI and MCI removed from any product that’s left on the skin over the last few years.

I happen to have three different brands of baby wipes in my house at the moment (small children you see), and a quick glance at the ingredients tells me that MI and MCI aren’t in any of them, and nor are they ingredients in the packet of flushable moist toilet tissue in the bathroom. This is hardly a comprehensive survey of course, but it suggests that these substances might be falling out of favour. Big companies aren’t really out to get us: pictures of people with nasty skin lesions after using their products doesn’t do them any favours.

Some consumers have complained about the use of MI and MCl in products.

Some consumers have complained about the inclusion of MI and MCl in products.

Do you really need to worry? Were these consumers right to highlight the fact that the shampoo contains MI and MCI in their reviews? Well, if you know you have sensitive skin then these substances probably are best avoided. But is shampoo likely to cause sensitisation if you’re fortunate enough to be blessed with the sort of skin that generally doesn’t erupt into a rash if the wind so much as changes? No one can say for certain, but it seems unlikely because you wash it off: these substances are only in contact with your skin for a few seconds.

So, whilst it doesn’t hurt to be aware of such things, there’s probably no need to panic and throw out all your shampoo just in case. On the other hand, if you’ve been wondering why your skin seems to be permanently irritated, it might be worth checking a few ingredients labels.

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Is oxygen really that good for you?

dove oxygen shampoo officialI don’t find time for huge amounts of television these days, and certainly not adverts. But I recently caught an advert for Dove Oxygen Shampoo out of the corner of my eye, and it brought me up short. Of course, beauty products are full of nonsense generally. Think, for example, of L’Oreal’s famous ingredient, ‘Boswelox’. (A word which, thanks to the wonderful Karl Pilkington, has since acquired a whole new meaning.) A little while ago I wrote a post about a toothpaste that was claiming to contain ‘liquid calcium’ (if it were true, cleaning your teeth would be much more exciting, trust me). It’s just par for the course. Really, is there any point wasting valuable energy continuing to be annoyed by these things?

Well yes, actually. Because this kind of silly hogwash just reinforces the ridiculous ‘science is so terribly hard, oooh aren’t all the complicated words impressive?’ attitude that is so frustratingly prevalent in the world today.

Besides which, picking apart this kind of thing is practically the reason for the existence of this blog. So here goes.

Firstly, a few snippets from Dove’s website:

“Oxygen & Moisture shampoo, conditioner and finishing products are pumped with Oxyfusion Technology, a new generation of moisture. This system moisturises fine, flat hair, giving you hair volume.”

And clicking through a bit further:

“[the shampoo] provides conditioning ingredients fused with oxygen as it instantly dissolves on your hair and breathes life into it.”

Hm.

Let’s start with that last sentence. Firstly: it dissolves on your hair? What does that mean? I’m just going to mention here that the meaning of the word dissolve is taught in year 7 (first year, in old money) science in all secondary schools in this country, and has been for many, many years. So everyone should know it, even the employees of the media company that came up with this tosh. (If you don’t, and you’ve ever muttered anything whatsoever about slipping standards and/or grade inflation, shame on you.)

‘Dissolve’ usually refers to solids. Salt dissolves in water. Sugar dissolves in tea (yes all right, also mostly water). It means that the solid becomes incorporated into the liquid, forming a solution. I haven’t checked, but I’m assuming Dove’s shampoo is not solid, as that would make it rather difficult to get out of the bottle.

Ok, oils and fats dissolve in certain solvents (not water mind you), and they could feasibly be liquid and yet the word still applies. True enough. It’s possible that the original text was ‘dissolves the grease on your hair’ (more or less accurate enough), and some marketing guy said, ‘I like really love it, I really reaaaahhhly do, but can we just lose two words from the middle?’

And yes, I think it’s safe to assume their shampoo mixes with water, because that is quite an important feature of shampoo, but they haven’t said ‘dissolves in the water’, they’ve said ‘dissolves on the hair’, which does sort of give the impression that it’s your hair that’s somehow dissolving the shampoo. Which is just weird.

But misuse of the world dissolve is only a minor irritation. No, my bigger problem is ‘ingredients fused with oxygen’. What the Dove does that mean?

For years and years we’ve been told that oxidants are bad. Or at least, that antioxidants are good (although this hasn’t really been backed up by scientific studies).

Is it difficult to work out that oxygen is an oxidant? It’s the granddaddy of oxidants. It’s the oxidant that all the other oxidants were named after. Oxy/oxi – see?

Chemists have two definitions of oxidation, but they’re broadly equivalent. Oxidation can be thought of as gaining oxygen, or it can be thought of as loss of electrons. Electrons are the negatively-charged particles that surround atoms. I mention them because the phrase ‘free radicals’ often turns up in the same breath as ‘antioxidants’. Free radicals are atoms or molecules which have an unpaired electron. Electrons like to be paired up. They REALLY like to be paired up. When they’re not, they’ll do pretty much anything they can to get paired up. Unpaired electrons are, if you like, the desperate guy at the nightclub at the end of the night. This makes them incredibly reactive, which means they can cause cell damage.

Worse, this happens in a chain reaction – meaning that a single free radical can do an awful lot of harm. So where to antioxidants come in? Well, antioxidants react with free radicals and essentially stop them in their tracks.

oxygen cylinder

Don’t suck on this.

Jolly good. But you see where I’m going here? Oxygen is the complete opposite of this. Yes, we breathe oxygen. It’s quite important stuff. Certainly, if you run out of it you’re in trouble. But it’s far from harmless. The air we breathe is only about twenty-one percent oxygen. Too much oxygen is flat-out dangerous. Breathe air with something like 50% oxygen for any length of time and you risk damaging your lungs, eyes and central nervous system. Really. Hospitals control oxygen use very carefully, and scuba divers who use it have to undergo rigorous training. The fad for oxygen bars has caused real concern in some quarters.

What does ‘ingredients fused with oxygen’ mean? Does it mean Dove have somehow dissolved oxygen in their shampoo? I’m certain that it doesn’t, because this wouldn’t be stable, and it would likely cause your shampoo to ‘go off’ in some way very quickly. Does it mean that their shampoo contains an ingredient that releases oxygen somehow? Hydrogen peroxide famously does this, when it breaks down into oxygen and water. Of course hydrogen peroxide is used to bleach hair, so… probably not (and anyway, again, not stable).

I looked up the ingredients in Dove Oxygen Moisture shampoo (and I’ve reproduced them below). To be honest, looking at the list I’m drawing a blank. My suspicion is that they’re using ‘oxygen’ simply because it’s the latest trendy thing. Oxygen is common enough – water contains one atom of oxygen in every molecule for starters, so they’re safe with the idea that the shampoo contains oxygen in some form – just not elemental oxygen.

But, ok, if I had to pick something… there is an interesting ingredient called ‘guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride‘ in there. If that is the one that inspired them, I can see why they went with Oxyfusion Technology – guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride hardly trips off the tongue.

Sucrose

Table sugar (sucrose) – perhaps we should wash our hair with this?

620px-Guaran.svg

Guar gum – check your salad dressing. Another conditioning alternative perhaps?

I’ve picked that one out of the list partly because it has ‘hydroxy’ in its name. Now in reality, that just means it contains an -OH group or several. This isn’t anything particularly special, table sugar has eight of ’em. Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride comes from guar gum, which in turn is made from guar beans. Guar gum is a food additive that’s used to thicken foods, and it turns up all over the place (check your salad dressing or ice cream).

Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride has been shown to have conditioning properties, which explains its inclusion in shampoo (this is my other reason for picking it out). It probably does leave your hair feeling nice and soft. And it does have several -OH groups, so it arguably sort of works with the ‘conditioning ingredients fused with oxygen’ claim. In the sense that it has oxygen atoms chemically bonded to it. As does, you know, water.

There’s no way that it releases oxygen though. Now in fairness to Dove, that claim isn’t actually made explicitly anywhere, although the lovely bubbly imagery does its damnedest to imply it.

Bad-Hair-Day

Bad hair day?

And here’s the thing: even if you could, would you want to routinely use a product that releases oxygen directly onto your skin or hair? Given that oxygen is an oxidising agent, and is likely to cause cell damage in high concentrations? Just bear in mind what happens to hair that’s exposed to too much hydrogen peroxide.

And don’t even get me started on the dozens and dozens of moisturisers that claim to do the same. Really? Straight into your skin? There are even some products that claim to do both at once, which frankly is jolly clever. In the Doctor Who sense of clever. I.e. fictional.

But what I want to know is this: after years of anti-oxidant this, and anti-oxidant that, how have we managed to go in exactly the opposite direction without consumers saying ‘er, hang on a minute, surely this has to be a load of old boswelox?’

Ingredients in Dove Oxygen & Moisture Shampoo:
Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Chloride, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycerin, Citric Acid, Dimethiconol, Disodium EDTA, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Laureth-23, Parfum, PPG-12, TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, TES-Sulfate, DMDM Hydantoin, Sodium Benzoate, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, CI 17200, CI 42090.